Yeah, you might want to grind your paper dry to prevent that.

A couple of quick things I see as an old toolmaker.

The first photo looks pretty darned good actually. Nicely textured and worn rustic. The top of the mold as filled nicely and it has dried without warping from what I can tell. The flashing around the bottom of the tile is to be expected and required for air and excess material to escape and allow for better fill. It can be simply removed with say, a dremel tool.

To get your material to fill better with the paper medium, you will need to either apply more pressure, which probably will not do your 3D printed mold much good. Or you need to use a wetter and looser material to get it to flow better and more easily. A more finely ground material will also flow better than paper that is simply torn into little pieces by hand. A tighter fit between the plunger and the frame of the mold with also increase the detail of the edges. But you still need to allow room for air and excess material to escape.

As far as mold release, you probably need to finish the inside of your mold better. Those layer lines will act like little velcro hooks. Sanding, filling, and painting to a smooth surface is a requirement for a good release. With a proper finished mold surface, a light spray of PAM cooking oil should be all you need for this.

That’s true. But it’s the numbers that will really tell the story if lemm.ee grows and how it grows. That’s why it’s far more telling in the months ahead and not some random single day.

First, how did you measure the rods? If you used a calipers, then the measurement is guaranteed to be inaccurate, (there is too much wishful thinking with a caliper). You need to use a real micrometer to get an accurate measurement for this job. Source: This old Toolmaker.

Second, I don’t know the manufacturing tolerances for those rods, but I have to think it’s more like +/-.01mm and not +/-.05mm. So I would assume you have irreparably damaged those carbon fiber rods by coating them in grease.

Third, yes the carbon fiber rods have absorbed some of the oils in the grease. This is not good. The good news is, if you contact customer service and talk to them, they can sell you a whole new xy carriage even though it’s only available from customer service and NOT their parts store. You might even need a whole new extruder and bearings to banish all traces of the grease.

That’s really good to see. But it will be far more interesting to see what the numbers are a month and longer are from now. If they don’t stick, it’s pretty meaningless.

You probably need to adjust those settings. Ironing settings can be fussy and the little I’ve done in Bambu Studio shows their settings aren’t much more than a starting point.

Are you trying to iron the top surfaces?

It’s a part for a corded snow thrower I use on my deck. It allows the the handle to be quickly and easily folded for compact storage. I would post a picture of it, but it’s currently 4F/-16C outside and I’m not walking to the shop. Besides, I would need to disassemble the handle to show the parts. So, Y’all will need to settle for a picture of the model.

Openscad is fine for pretty basic one item things. It’s not so good for complex designs like the model steam engines I sometimes amuse myself with. And it’s sure not capable in a commercial setting.

But if you enjoy openscad and writing code, more power to you and enjoy what you are doing with it!